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The banning of recent high street fashion adverts has reignited debate over body image standards within the industry. Retail giants Zara, Next, and Marks & Spencer have all faced scrutiny in recent months after promotional campaigns were deemed to feature models who appeared "unhealthily thin."
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) confirmed a surge in complaints following these bans. While in 2024 the ASA received 61 complaints about model weight (only eight of which merited investigation) the weeks following the July 2025 ban of an M&S ad saw more than 20 complaints in a short period. The watchdog emphasizes that advertisers must avoid presenting unhealthy body images as aspirational, warning that harmful trends like the 1990s and early 2000s "heroin chic" aesthetic may be resurfacing.
Model and activist Charli Howard, who famously spoke out after being dropped by an agency for being "too big" despite being a UK size six to eight, described the resurgence as deeply concerning. She and others note that recent imagery can echo online "thinspiration" content, which social media platforms like TikTok have begun restricting.
Brands involved in the bans have defended themselves, citing healthy medical certifications for the models and attributing the appearance of thinness to poses, camera angles, and styling choices. Nevertheless, industry voices such as personal stylist Keren Beaumont and fashion journalist Victoria Moss warn that returning to ultra-slim ideals could undo progress made during the body positivity movement.
For many models, the shift is less of a comeback and more a reflection that ultra-thin has remained an unspoken standard. Yoga teacher and former Miss England Charlotte Holmes shared that despite brief moments of inclusivity, she has still been denied jobs for not meeting such expectations.
Experts argue that the revival of 1990s fashion silhouettes from low-rise jeans to slip dresses plays a role in spotlighting thinness. While some point to the influence of celebrity weight loss trends and medications, others stress the importance of maintaining diversity in body representation.
The ASA vows to keep a close watch on advertising practices, mindful of the societal impact of promoting unrealistic body ideals. As Beaumont put it, "The recent imagery should be a reminder to brands not to regress back to outdated standards."
